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Sunday, 20 August 2017

Restaurant Review - The Tayberry St Andrews, Kinnettles Hotel, North St, St Andrews

The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
Just over a year ago myself and Nicola celebrated by birthday with a wonderful tasting menu dinner at The Tayberry in Broughty Ferry. The restaurant is run by CIS Excellence Awards Young Chef of The Year 2015, Adam Newth, who is a chef with his star on the rise. I love Adam's approach to cooking because he makes a big effort as he sources from local producers where possible so when I was asked if we would be interested in reviewing his 2nd restaurant venture in St Andrews, I was quick to say yes and sort a date for the diary.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
The Tayberry St Andrews is located within the recently opened Kinnettles Hotel & Spa on St Andrew's North Street and in order to make the most of our long drive from East Kilbride, we were invited to stay overnight at the hotel. See my recent review here.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
The restaurant is situated on the ground floor, sitting to the right of the main hotel reception desk and although the dining area looks very elegant, there is nothing to separate where the restaurant stops and the foyer starts. The design and layout of the hotel and restaurant will have no doubt been a headache for the architects involved but it does mean that you might be enjoying your slap up meal while reception try to check in guests or giving information or directions to tourists. It does take the shine away a little from the fine dining element of The Tayberry although I understand that a solution is currently being looked into at the moment so don't let this put you off visiting.
We were being treated to the Tasting Menu along with a selection of paired wines. The tasting menu cost £55 per person with the paired wine option being a further £40 each. Whilst I'm a huge fan of having paired wines with dinner as it gives you the chance to try wines that you might not have had before, or have the Somellier pass on their knowledge of a particular grape, region or vineyard, I feel that the value for money on the paired wines doesn't stack up.
Don't get me wrong, the wines that we had were all very pleasant - the Cosmina Pinot Grigio was particularly nice - but the hotel bar wine list only runs to about 12 wines (and we had four of them plus a glass of fizz) so I think it's a little optimistic to think that the selection of wines on the menu are going to be paired effectively with a changing menu. If we were dining at The Tayberry St Andrews again, we would simply choose one of the well priced wines and share the bottle.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
Despite my negative comments on the value on the paired wines, I can't say the same about the tasting menu itself. From start to finish, the portion sizes were great and everything looked and tasted great.
We started with hot smoked salmon blini, orange, salmon roe 'caviar' which was an explosion of taste and a great way to open our account at The Tayberry St Andrews. The salmon was moist with a heavy smoky flavour that was balanced by the sharp orange sauce and saltiness of the salmon roe.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
Next up was a wonderful dish of smoked ham hough terrine, pickled daikon, hazelnut. This is the type of starter that I would order if I had seen it on an a la crate menu so was delighted that it was one of the courses on the tasting menu. The balance of flavour and texture was spot on, with the coarse ham hough terrine which was well seasoned balanced with the pickled daikon. The hazelnut purée was silky smooth and packed full of nutty flavour that worked really well with the other flavours on the plate.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
The next dish was both of our favourites and in my opinion, reason enough to make a trip to St Andrews, especially as this dish is on the a la carte menu at The Tayberry St Andrews.
The Scrabster hake, chorizo, borlotti beans, haricot vert, garlic butter was simply outstanding! Hake is still underused but this fish from the same family as the cod is every bit as good. The fish was cooked perfectly and served with the crispiest skin over a bed of soft borlotti beans and green beans which carried them smoky flavours of the spicy chorizo. The addition of a plump mussel was a pleasant surprise although I'm sure the dish would manage without it.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
The last savoury dish was slow cooked beef cheek, potato purée, burnt leek, raisins, red wine jus which was another knock-out course. The beef had been cooked for hours until it was melt-in-mouth tender and served over silky mashed potatoes. The beef cheek tasted great while sweetness from the raisins and bitterness from the charred leeks added extra layers of flavour.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
The penultimate course was our cheese course which was a pretty plate of Brie, apple jelly, poached pear, bitter leaves. I like cheese but often feel that the cheese selections in restaurants are too 'grown up' for me but the cheese course at The Tayberry was right up my street. The Brie was soft and creamy with a mild flavour which was lifted thanks to the bitter leaves. The apple jelly and pear brought enough sweet to the dish and set us up for our dessert.
The Tayberry St Andrews, Gerry's Kitchen, Restaurant Review, St Andrews Restaurants, food blogger, Kinnettles Hotel St Andrews
The final course of the tasting menu was one for those with a sweet tooth which suited me down to the ground. Our dessert of Pittormie strawberries, white chocolate cannelloni, vanilla ice cream was delicious. What's not to like about strawberries and ice-cream? When you throw in a crispy filo pastry tube filled with soft gooey white chocolate, you've got something not far short of my perfect pudding. As part of the paired wines, our dessert was served with a glass of fizz - a perfect way to end the evening.
With dinner done, we made our way through to the bar for a final G&T before heading up to bed.
We dined during the soft launch of the hotel and restaurant and as a result, the restaurant was very quiet. In fact, there was only one other couple eating in the restaurant that evening which meant that the atmosphere was pretty flat. However I'm sure that once word is out about the food and service, the locals will be flocking to The Tayberry St Andrews.
We would like to thank the staff and management of The Tayberry St Andrews for their hospitality and generosity and wish the every success in the future. We dined as guests of the restaurant however my review above is anhonest account of our evening.
Keep up to date with with news and offers at The Tayberry St Andrews on Facebook and Twitter.

 

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